Crate Training
Used properly, the crate is a Godsend. The crate is the single most effective training aid you can have. If your first impression of a crate is "Theyre awful", you are not alone. However, it doesnt take very long to be indoctrinated to the advantages of a crate. A puppy has a very real need for a place of his own. An open-wired-mesh crate with a metal floor tray providesa puppy with a "safe place" to go. When hes tired, its his bed. Dogs are den animals. Without a crate, you will find them "nesting" under tables, beds, chairs, in corners, even cabinets. A crate offers security from house traffic, noise, kids, other dogs, company, thunderstorms, etc... At the same time, it offers a full and clear view of anything and everything going on around them. This way, they get used to being in the midst of activity without any threat of danger. The crate is portable, it can be in the middle of a room, or in a corner. Keeping a Sheltie in a box, a bathroom, or a similar closed in environment, prohibits normal socialization and conditioning. A Sheltie kept in such unacceptable isolation produces a shy and fearful adult. To knowledgeable breeders, crate training is essential. Used correctly, a crate encourages a puppies good behavior and builds independance and confidence. The puppy raised with the benefit the crate accepts it as his bed, and does not want to "mess" in it. He will try to get out to relieve himself. young puppies cant wait very long at first, and shouldnt be forced to. The crate is a passive teacher in control. A puppy quickly learns the real reason for going outside. The important thing to remember is a puppy is not intentionally destructive. Leaving a puppy loose and unattended is foolish and dangerous. Having a crate to "babysit" your little treasure when you are gone means he'll be safe and he cant get into any trouble. As a Sheltie matures, he will use his crate less often. But, it will always be "his room" and home away from home. When traveling, your Shelties crate provides the same protection as a childs carseat. It prevents accidental excape from a stopped car. There are NO drawbacks to crates, unless they are used as punishment or confinment is overdone. A puppy should sleep in his crate and be fed in it. After every meal and every nap, he should immediatly be taken outside to relieve himself.

Grooming
The Sheltie does require some maintenance grooming. Being a long haired breed, the Sheltie will shed its coat. The male will shed once a year, usually in the summer. The female sheds, not only, in the summer, but after every heat cycle. Spaying a female will eliminate a great deal of shedding. A female will, also, lost most of the hair on her body after a litter of puppies. Even though a summer shed thins out the dense coat of a Sheltie, long hair breeds are more suscpetable to heatstroke! A Sheltie must be protected from the hot sun! Regular brushing will help maintain the coats natural lustre. Misting the coat first, with water, will help reduce shedding. Particular attention must be paid to the hair behind the ears, as it mats easily, making the ear area uncomfertable and proving a hiding place for fleas. Toenails must be kept short by cutting or sanding. Long toenails arch the toes away from the ground causing the foot to splay apart. This in turn, leads to a breakdown in the foot and leg, which encourages arthritis. Teeth must be cleaned to prevent rotting, gum disease, and other complications such as gastric upsets. This can be done by you or your vet. It's safer and less expensive if you do it yourself. (The vet will anesthesize your dog, and that involves some risk) your dog can be trained to allow you to clean his teeth witha dental scaler. While, not exactly a pleasant job, it's efficient and relatively easy

Sheltie Ears
The ears can be tricky. When a Sheltie is teething, their ears can be both up, both tipped, or one tipped and one up. They may also change daily which is tipped. Sometimes, the breeder may use fabric glue to keep the ears tipped right where they need to be. If the breeder did not, you can. Just slide your finger near the ear, and fold the tip over your finger, use a small amount of glue, let it sit. It will come off in time. Typically, once it wears off, the ears will be set. It you notice, however, that the ears are going prick again, simply reapply the glue. There are also stronger solutions out there. But it is best to consult a breeder or a veterinarian before some products.

Bathing
Only bathe your Sheltie when he needs it. Frequent bathing can be harmful to the caot and skin by removing too much natural oil, causing dryness, flaking, and itching. use shampoos specifically designed for dogs. Detergents and human hair products can actually be dangerous in certain instances. Please put cotton in your dogs ears to keep water out of their ear canal. the dry your Sheltie- blot the coat with a towel (rubbing losens the undercoat), then blow the coat dry with a blow dryer- parting the hair as you go with your hand or pin brush. This basic grooming is necessary for all Shelties. More extensive grooming is required to show a Sheltie and takes considerable time to learn.

Fleas And Ticks
As of right now, I believe the topical method is best. My favorite, is Advantage with the free tube of KilTix. Kiltix is also helping to protect your pooch from ticks, mosquitos and that virus called West Nile. Flea collars may help puppies but have little success in adults. Flea Shampoos last a very short time. Flea Sprays can be effective (and messy), check with your vet, or a breeder. Products taken internally are controversial- check with your vet. Dipping is very effective, and lasts longer than any of the above. It is most successful done after a bath. While the dog is still very damp (apply sterile eye ointment, mineral oil, or vasoline to the eyes) pour the dip over the dog or sponge it on. WARNING: Do NOT use any flea control methods together. The combination of insectisides could be dangerous, if not fatal, to your dog! Flea Bombs are great for the house. Yard Spraying with a product like Malathion is essential for an adequate conjunction with what you use on your dog.

Food And Nutrition
A Premium Grade Commercial, dry dog food is recommended. They are well balenced, and easily obtainable. Dry dog food helps satiate the dogs natural tendency to chew, and aids in keeping down tartar build up on teeth. Soft dog food contributes to more rapid tartar formation. Picky eaters require individual discussion. Vitamins should be given to growing puppies, older adults, and adults used for breeding, or showing. Other supplements are required for pregnant and lactating bitches. Most shelties do best on a high protein, low fat brand of food. The more premium the food, the less they eat and the less waste in your yard, plus it is probably healthier also! Lots of people are now doing home cooked diets like the BARF diet or RAW food, consult your veterinarian or breeder before starting a feeding regimine like that.

Veterinarian Visits Needed?
In addition to a yearly (or bi-yearly)Rabies shot, your Sheltie will require annual DHLPPC (which includes Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo, Parainfluenza, Lepto, and Corona.) He will need a Heartworm test every year, and must be kept on a monthly Heartworm preventitive (pill or injection). Heartworms are the result of the bite of an infected musquito. Undetected, Heartworms can kill the dog. The treatment to eliminate heartworms is, itself, dangerous and expensive. Routine stool checks should be done to control infestation of hookworms, roundworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Shelties can also devolop allergies and an occasional ear problem, depending on the tip of your Shelties ears.
ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR VET IF YOUR SHELTIE HAS VOMITING, DIARRHEA, LETHARGY, LOSS OF APPETITE, BLOODY URINATION, OR BLOODY OR TAR-LIKE STOOLS.It is also important to contact them if you believe your pet may have ingested a foreign objoect (including some plants) and chemicals.

Choosing A Veterinarian
When deciding on a vet, it is very important to select one you can communicate with. It goes without saying htat your vet should be a skilled doctor, who keeps up-to-date on medical improvements. He, or she, must the person you can have a working relationship with. Aside from wanting fair prices on routine office visits, you need a vet who cares. One you can call in a 3am emergency- and he trusts you not to call, unless it is an emergency. If your vet says, or does things, that dont seem quite right, or hes impatient when you ask questions, find another vet. A vets advice may be accurate; but if you want a second opinion, dont hesitate to get it. There can be no room for doubts, you need to have confidence in the person entrusted with your pets life. A vet that understands and respects your love and concearn for your pet si worth his weight in gold. Vets treat every breed imaginable and usually learn to recognize a really good quality dog. A few vets even show their dogs. However, most vets know little (or nothing) about what makes a dog- show quality. Look to your vet for health care, but seek a breeders advice for showing, breeding, training, etc... A vet can be a good reference. He knows, better than anyone, who really takes good care of their dogs.